Lonely days are over! We awoke at 7:30 packing and dressing and then drinking coffee. At seven we take off. I made a track on the GPS to Baamonde, it connects with the Camino after 20 km. It is a nice route partially on asphalt but very quiet roads and partially over country roads. The terrain is slightly raising and descending, but not very much. For Loes this is her first day so she has to get acquainted to it, but she managed it well. For me too it is adjusting. I have to walk much slower then I was used to, but not really problem. We took rests but unfortunately there are no bars on our road so we will do with water. At half past twelve we were at the Camino and shortly after we came to a bar. Coffee and food. We walked a while along the local road and came to Baamonde. There was enough place in the alberge. After checking in and dumping our gear we went for a terrace for beer. The first one I encountered at the Alberge was Alvero, the guy I talked to and look at the sky at Xo Gusto, I didn’t expected to see him again, but here he is and can take the picture of me he wanted. We chatted a while and then he goes for a nap. We went for the beer and afterwards some, shopping. Back at the Alberge I started writing my diary and then I got in a conversation with a Finnish guy. He has already walked the Camino Frances went to Muxia and Finestra then back to Santiago. From there he has taken the train to Bayonne and walked from there parts of the Camino del Norte. Amazing. After a nap by Loes we ate and then to bed.
This is gonna be a lazy day. I awoke at six but went back to sleep it is still too early. I slept a while but at seven the lights were turned on and I arised. Dressing, packing and waiting. I have only to walk 12 km and the room in the hotel will only be available from midday. Standing outside smoking and talking with Vincent, Sebastian, Anne and Fredrick. At 8 I had a breakfast and finally at 9 I leave together with the others. Back in the centre we said goodbye and went our separate ways. Vincent to the bus station, the others to Baamondo and I to the hotel. I had the waypoint of the hotel so the GPS guides me. Quite boring along two straight roads. Sometimes it was drizzling, but no big showers. The temperatures were ok, good weather to walk. At eleven I was at the hotel, it is in the middle of nowhere, but it looks good. The room is free already. I checked in and then went into the village to look around. I didn’t expect Loes to arrive around four. I found a bar with a menu do dia and ate there. Then wait again. At a quarter to four she arrived finally. I was sitting already half an hour at the entrance waiting because the hotel is obscured from the road. Luckily for the taxi drove by at first. Then at last I can hold her in my arms after more then two months. The rest wil have to come from your own imagination. Tomorrow we will have a resting day and then we will start walking again.
Till the day after tomorrow.
I awoke at seven thirty, yesterday it had became so late because of the eating together, writing my diary and part of the blog. The first thing I did after smoking a cigarette was finishing the blog. Then dressing and packing. The bar was open so I could drink coffee. Vincent was also preparing for take off. It is clouded again and there was a cold wind. Only about 20 km today. From the start I had a stiff pace to get a little bit warmth. The track is nice farmlands are interchanged with small forest, truly nice. Atb about 10 there was a bar so I could drink coffee and eat a sandwich. Then again back into the drizzling. Nevermind it is part of the game. Nothing much happened on the road, just a nice walk. At half past twelve I reached the Alberge. There are people waiting in front of it waiting for it to open. I decided to walk on for in the city another one and they have a washing machine and a dryer. I set goodbye to Anna who is waiting there, maybe we will meet again in Santiago. In the new Alberge, all my clothes go into the washing machine, the result is questionable, but it is cleaned. As i was writing my diary Vincent arrived at the Alberge. He is looking for his brother. And the two German girl: Anna and Frederique. They are not here and I haven’t seen them at the other Alberge. He tries to call them with my phone, because he dropped his phone in the toilet this morning but there is no reach. He went back to the other alberge by taxi, but an hour later he was back. He didn’t find them there either. He decided then to go back to town to meet them there. A while later Sebastian and the German girls arrived without Vincent. Quite a hilarious situation. In the end it turns right and Vincent is also safely at the Alberge. We chat a lot waiting and boring ourself. Hungry in one word. Together we went back to the center and had a meal, it was quite good the food and more than enough. We enjoyed ourselves. Later a Hungarian man, who lives in Bergen(N) and a Canadian woman from Montreal joined us. We had a lot of fun. Tomorrow I wil walk to the hotel where I will meet Loes again. I am longing for it. It is strange that exactly at this moment I cannot make calls because my phone can’t find a network.
Tomorrow I will go on and we will see.
It was a very cold night with a lot of wind. My feet were close to the window and that couldn’t close. There was a lot of draught. I ended up with my socks on and my t-shirt on into my lining sack. After a few times awakening, I finally went out of bed at seven thirty. At eight I was on my way. It was very clouded but sometimes the sun could break through. Very beautiful enlightened clouds and spots of sunlight on the fields. At Villanova de Lourenza I drank coffee. It had rained in the meantime so I couldn’t stay sitting for a long time . On with the route. I met again with the Dutch brothers. One of them has forgotten his shoes, the day before I cannot imagine that. He has to wait all day because other pilgrims will bring his shoes with them. Not so bad, he has problems with his knee so that will get some rest. Then the big climb starts. Slowly but gradually I come higher. As I was resting Anna and two other polish women, mother and daughter, came along. We took some pictures and chatted a while. But we must go on. We will meet again in Gontan. The Alberge is full opposite however there is a pension. I will sleep under the roof in a very small room. I don’t care as long I can sleep somewhere. The pension filled up also very quickly. The Dutch brothers are also in the pension. We ate together. For me the first in a longtime not having my meal alone. Very nice.
tomorrow to Vilalba only 20 km.
I wanted to sleep long, but how did you do that? At 6 I was awake. I smoked a cigarette and went to bed again. At half past seven I awoke again. Dressing, packing and off we go. Finding the right way is in most cities a big problem and Ribadeo is not the exception to the rule. With the help of the GPS I did succeed. I also checked the direction because once walking back has been enough. To summarize the day climbing a bit descending and then climbing again. It was still very hot and humid, because it didn’t rain last night. Around eleven o’clock the sun breaks through the clouds, adding up the heat. At Vilela there is coffee. I couldn’t drink coffee at the hotel because the bar wasn’t open yet. And then on the road again. It was really hot in the sun. The landscape is quite different from the last weeks. No more sea, but valleys. It resembles like the French bask land, but there are more villages, the villages are smaller and the valleys are narrower. At last I came to Villamartin Grande, 10 houses clustered, but there is a small building with tables and chairs and two vending machines. Yes beer!! I stayed there a while enjoying the shade, the beer and some food. There were more pilgrims that took there rest there. But the road goes on, only a few more km to go. The Alberge in Gondan is closed there is another one just 2 km further along the track, there is room and there is a restaurant and bar. The first thing I do is going to the restaurant, I was just in time to get food. The food wasn’t quite good, but it’s food and I am not at a gourmet tour. After the meal back to the Alberge, having a shower and writing my diary. I talked a while with a polish woman and a Italian guy. The polish woman. Is called Anna and I have seen her several times before and we talked several times before. With the Italian guy I stayed awake a long time after Anna was gone to bed. We talked about the Camino and live in general while watching the sky. It is the time of the Perseïds. It is a strange night one side of the sky is completely clear and at the other
side the sky is clouded and is lite with lighting. Finally I saw 1 meteorite, but a big one. At twelve we went to bed, because it was getting cold.
Another day has finished.
Although there were maybe 60 pelgrims in the alberge it was quite silent. Ok it took sometime but at 11 everybody was quiet and there were no snorers. As I awoke it was still quiet. I slept next to the door so I could pack the last things outside. At six I am on the road as usual. It didn’t rain this night, so it was still very humid, the sky was completely covered. After a short while I passed the other alberge. There are already people awake too. In the center of the village is already a bar open, time for coffee. I met with Fred, I have seen him already several times before but we never talked. He too is Dutch from Amersfoort originally, but I forgot to ask where he is living now. We share the love for the dawn and the sunrise and above all the silence. As it goes after the coffee we separated and went on. Later he warned me as I almost missed a turn, which leads to the coast. A spectacular and worthy goodbye to the coast. Capo Blanco it took almost 2 hours to pull myself loose, even with the gray daylight, what a wild beauty. At several points later on along the track I had beautiful views. At Tapia I drank coffee and ate something. I went to the Alberge for a punch. The Alberge is beautiful situated near the edge of a cliff. To my other surprise there were people still sleeping and it was half past . They must have been very tired. At the beach of playa de Penarredonda I ate and drank again. Although there is no direct sun it was very hot and humid. The Alberge in Ribadeo is complete as was to expect with only 22 places. Ribadeo is a tourist center so it took a while to find a hotel and expensive.
Nevermind tomorrow another day with new changes. Loes will come one day later on Saturday there was no other flight available straight From Brussels to Santiago. At 25th of August we will fly back home. It’s hard for me to imagine how that will be after almost 4 Months on the road. I suppose just like now I will take it as it comes, day by day.
I awoke at the normal time, the girls are still asleep, dressing. Packing the last things. Normally I then smoke a cigarette, but I couldn’t open the door. Back to the room fetching the keys. Now the door is open. Luckily I checked whether I could open the door from the outside too and that wasn’t possible, I blocked the door with a chair. Finally I left at six. The sky is clear, but it was still pitch dark. With the help of my little friend I found my way through the bush. I came to the road again and climbed to the coastal plateau. I had a great view at the beach down in the dark. Just t her reflections of the moon on the breaking waves. For quite a while I followed the road while the dawn proceeded. As the sun rose I reached the boarder of Luarca. From the plateau I had a view over the harbor and city. After having descended I ate and drank coffee. At the terrace I met 2 Dutch brothers. The have started at Llanes. One of them has done the Camino Primitivo before. After a chat I go on, climbing up again at the other side of the harbor. The track goes now for a while trough quiet country roads, but meets up with the new A8 and also the track is changed because of that. The marking is not yet there either. At half past twelve I arrived at Villapedre. Time for a beer and a meal. It was warm and very humid. The meal wasn’t very good. As I had finished one of the Dutch guys came in and a few other known pilgrims. We chat a while and then I went on my way. A nice stretch through country roads until Navia. In Navia I drank some beer and went on. I walked about 30 km so I can still do some more. The track follows greatly the N634 with small sideways. At the end I am sick and tired of all the small sideways and I decided just to keep on to the N634. At Arboces I was stopped by a car filled with pilgrims, the Alberge in La Caridad is full and they are transported to another Alberge just 100 meters back. Thank you St. James I walked 42 km today it has been enough.
Tomorrow the last leg along the coast after that I will have to climb again.
The day after. It took sometime to get asleep yesterday, because of an amount of childish youngsters that had no respect at all for the interest of others. At half past ten I. Interrupted the stupid giggeling and talking aloud in the dormitory. They stopped but still there was a lot of noise of people readying there beds, packing or unpacking their backpacks. At eleven it finally was quiet and every body to bed. At a quarter past five the first awoke me. I don’t know what they all had to do with all the noise, but I left at a quarter to six and they were still busy and making noise. ALberges don’t function for the target group they have become a kind of cheap youth hostels. So far the outing of the frustrations. As I left it was still pitch-dark because of a big cloud hanging over my head. Again the great gift of my friend Bertie saves the day. The small light makes it possible to walk the forest path in the dark. Finally I reached the old main road, I have to follow that for quite a while. Around 8 I see the sunrise. There was a bar open so I could drink coffee and eat a croissant while looking at the rising sun. The marked track differs from the described track. I followed the marked track. At some point I missed a arrow and ended at the edge of the cliffs. The reward was a beautiful view at the rocks in the water enlighted with the still low sun. The price was 300 meters back uphill to come back at the right track. The track goes down and at the other side of the valley again up. A lot of climbing and descending with only two panorama points and not that spectacular. I decided it was not worth the sweat. I kept to the track on the GPS. I ate at restaurant of a camping, it was not very good but it’s energie. Then on the road again. I go to the hotel at Canero. At first I couldn’t find it but at half past five it’s there and there is a place for me. The hotel has a special room for pilgrims with for beds. I am the first but later 2 young German girls join me. I ate at the hotel and are now in bed. Friday Loes will join me in Vilalba. She will walk the last 125 km together with me. How will it be to see, hear and feel each other again after more than 2 months. I am longing for it, so I have to walk on to get in time there.